Baker Francisco Seubert on biking in Buenos Aires and the towns to hit outside the city.
(Condé Nast Traveler) Besides heading three panaderías—his starter dough is the yeasty foundation to many a Buenos Aires restaurant’s bread basket—sourdough specialist Francisco Seubert of Atelier Fuerza also loves a collaboration. His recent projects include opening spin-offs at F4 Esquina steakhouse and Mercat Villa Crespo, and co-founding Cardumen magazine. Plus, December 2021 will see the publication of his first book, El pan de Fran.
This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.
What is the best thing about the Buenos Aires food scene right now?
My generation is forging a gastronomic culture of really respecting local raw ingredients so as to create an Argentine identity. At Atelier Fuerza, that means choosing the best organic, stone-ground flours and giving traditional bakeries renewed value. There are also hyper-specializations: take Donnet’s fungi-forward menu and Orei ramen bar, a fantastic new opening.
What’s your signature baked good?
The baking here is inspired by Europe, and includes Iberian churros and the English white loaves used for our sandwiches de miga. I’m obsessed with medialunas, Argentina’s answer to Viennese puff-pastry crescents. Our version undergoes a three-day yeast-and-sourdough-hybrid fermentation method, and is lightly lacquered with orange syrup. I never tire of making or eating medialunas.