Close to the River Mapocho and shadowed by nearby Mount San Cristóbal, a polite reminder of the Andes, the neighbourhood of Providencia looks rather staid at first glance. Medium-rise office blocks and two-storey homes make up the bulk of the urban landscape, but further inspection reveals a thriving cultural scene. Providencia laces together Bohemia with the modern world and brims with cafés and bars.

It is also home to Barrio Italia, a former industrial sub-district that had its heyday between 1910 and 1940. Its regeneration is more beatnik, successfully integrating venerable butchers and mechanics with organic cafés, boutiques and art galleries that have breathed new life into warehouses and workshops.

Casa de Todos is one of a growing number of B&Bs in the capital. Owned by a married couple who love to travel and sensed an opportunity, the 11-room lodging embellishes original 1920s fittings with fresh furnishings.

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