“I just run a deli,” says Miguel Hernández when asked about Mistura food fair and the pending LatAm début edition of World’s 50 Best restaurants. But since opening three months ago on key gastro street La Mar in Miraflores – also home to Pescados Capitales and the eponymous cebichería – La Nacional is proving to be oh so much more than “just a deli.”

Stepping inside the former mechanic’s workshop, it’s easy to understand why it has become a fast-favoured haunt for lunching ladies, hip young things and foodies in search of dynamic twists on Peruvian staples.

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